How to put the power down
Let's get one thing straight; this isn't a write-up on how to make your car DIRT-NASTY LOW. If you're not performance oriented to some extent, this whole website really isn't for you. Otherwise, let's get started.
Anyone can claim their car makes XXX HP or TQ, but can they actually transfer that power to the rear wheels effectively, and even more, to the pavement? Better yet, what are the conditions that they can transfer that power down? No one setup will be the best for ALL types of racing and MotorSport, and we won't claim to be experts in the matter. What we are here to do is give you a basic understanding of the bolt on modifications you can do yourself.
LET'S BEGIN, SHALL WE?
--Tires. Tires tires tires. You wouldn't try ice skating in a pair of sneakers, right? What about going hiking in flip flops? No, right (let's ignore the sarcastic people here, srs bznz only)? So why would you run summer tires in snow and vice versa? Choosing a tire will depend on your goal; street performance? Time attack/Circuit track? AutoX? Off-road (please don't offroad your GC without modifying it extensively) performance? Tread pattern, treadwear rating, sidewall stiffness and performance level all matter here. For the UTQG guide and explanations, go For more info on different tire types, go
Next is tire sizing and fitment. No, we're not talking about flush fitment, or tuck. We're talking about fitting your tires to your wheels and not rubbing them against the wheel well or the suspension. We're ignoring fuel economy for the sake of keeping things simple here. For the intent of this write-up, the larger your tire contact patch with the ground, the better for traction (most of the time).
Also, summer and all season tires work better when they're warmed up to operational temp. Don't expect peak performance as soon as you start driving, but also don't overheat your tires, as it will wear them out quicker and reduce the amount of grip they have.
--Wheels. Not RIMS. Wheels. Wheels are important in your setup because they're 1: Unsprung weight (which means the suspension does not support them) and 2: Rotating mass. More on wheels, Beyond that, you'll want to get a wheel setup that has the proper offset (See the chart link above) to clear your brakes and the suspension setup. Performance wise, you want the smallest diameter wheel, as wide as possible to match the tire with the largest contact patch.
Sometimes the wheels you want won't clear the brake calipers; some people run spacers to clear them. If you go this route, make sure to get hub-centric spacers with lug nuts bolted to the spacers to mount to the wheel hub. Also, make sure the bolt pattern of the wheels (and if applicable, hubs) you get are 5x114.3 bolt pattern and 67.1mm hub bore diameter (if your wheel hub diameter are larger than 67.1mm, you will need hub rings to avoid the wheel bouncing around on the hub while driving.
More to come...Stay tuned for more info!